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The
Mission
By Karen Solomon |
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The Mission is
often described as colorful, eclectic, and bustling due to its Latino
roots, small artist galleries, bright murals, shops, bars, and of course,
its vast array of excellent and cutting-edge eating establishments.
Named after the famed Mission Dolores, the sixth
mission of Californias famed and historic 21 missions, the area
remains peppered with numerous churches and synagogues. But today the
Mission District is perhaps better known as a great place to eat, and
the best place in town to get a heavenly burritoa walloping tortilla-rolled
sack of tasty beans, rice, avocado, and meat for under five bucks.
While the burrito remains the classic staple food
that powers the thriving arts scene of galleries and theaters like
Brava Center for the Arts, Galleria de la Raza, Jack Hanley Gallery,
Spanganga, The Marsh, and others, the Mission has also become a fertile
breeding ground for artistic displays in food. And while prices have
inflated substantially over the three-to-five dollar burrito, so, too
has the level of creative culinary engineering and display. Today,
the Mission houses nationally celebrated neighborhood restaurants,
upscale markets, and a diverse world menu of excellence. |
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But lets begin with the basicsthe
very best burrito. Taqueria Cancun is a local legend for rolling
and grilling the very best. The other Cancuns on
Market street and at the end of Mission street are also popular, but
their flagship location on Mission at 19th street serves the
freshest and most consistent quality. Without their $3.20 vegetarian
burrito the Missions residents would starve, and at times the slightly
less-than-scrubbed crowd occupying the long lines and long benches of
every table indicate as such. The colorful flags on the ceiling are as
crisp and refreshing as the house-made agua frescasrefreshing juice
and sugar drinks in cantaloupe, strawberry, or almond milk that perfectly
accompany the heavy, spicy beans and grilled meats. If the jukebox isnt
blaring Tejuanno music, its quite likely that a live Mariachi band
will come in to play and pass the hat. This is not fine dining by any
stretch, but that doesnt mean that the perfectly seasoned Mexican
comfort food is anything less than five-star. |
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On your next visit to the Missionno
stomach could handle such heavy doses of starch twice dailybe
sure to try the less popular Latin American cousin of the burrito,
the pupusa. At their best, a pupusa is a handmade thick corn tortilla
stuffed with any combination of refried beans, melted mild cheese,
succulent ground pork, and green pepper, grilled to perfection, served
with a thyme-heavy, vinegary cabbage slaw. Where can these golden beauties
be found? Like the burrito, a decent pupusa can
be found on every block, but some of the best come off the griddle
at the family-owned Ricas Pupusas on 18th street
at Guerrero.
The atmosphere is a pastiche of found chairs, low
ceilings, and faded posters of everything from El Salvadorian and Guatemalan
tapestries to Mickey Mouse. Service is quick, but the house specialty
takes time, the wait made more palatable with a mammoth bowl of soup,
and watching the telenovellasSpanish-language soap operason
the omnipresent television in the back. Once your pupusas arrive, and
they are properly doused with peppery red picante, youll be assured
that your time was well-spent. |
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The food of Latin America is what the
Mission is based on, its backbone and its foundation. But as the former
barrio has become more gentrified and the streets have seen an increase
in foot traffic, the dining options have turned more upper crust. Some,
however, keep the neighborhoods roots firmly in place. Of late,
several Nuevo Latino fusion doors have opened, most with some modicum
of success, but one of the best to make it work is Limon Rotisserie
at 16th and
Valencia. The brilliant yellow exterior will show you the way, but the
aromatic carnival of topnotch seafood, grilled meats, saffron, tomato,
and onion will let you know youve arrived. This tiny neighborhood
haunt is intimate and always packed with diners hungry for legendary
ceviche, paella, and seafood dishes in a punchy light cream. Owner and
Chef Martin Castillo lends the menu a Peruvian bend, and he is widely
credited with injecting the new wave of Latin fusion into the San Francisco
mainstream. Limon is a family affair; Castillo often consults on the
menu with his mother and two brothers, who also assist in restaurant
management and operations. That warmth resonates throughout. And the
ambiance is classy, distinct, memorable, and artistic. |
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While Limon and its Nuevo Latino kin
are in the royal court of restaurant innovation, the pronounced king
of family food done to perfection clearly goes to Delfina. Ask
any foodie about the place and their eyes will widen, their jaw will
drop, and the raving for Delfinas simple, exquisitely prepared
Italian menu will ignite. The menu changes often in accordance with
whats fresh at its peak, but the quality and consistency of the
food and dining experience is always tremendous. Some reliable standards
include tender homemade pasta, sublime roast chicken, grilled calamari
and white beans, and the flatiron steak and frites.
A husband and wife team account for the establishments
rippling successCraig Stoll, trained in Italy, who runs the kitchen,
and Anne Spencer, who sees after every detail of the houseboth
operate and own the arty, industrial space, and see over the educated,
attentive staff. Widely celebrated in the San Francisco Chronicle,
the New York Times, San Francisco Magazine, Food & Wine, and elsewhere,
a recent expansion and crowded tables every night indicate that Delfina
is still holding court. Reservations are absolutely recommended. |
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Next door to Delfinarounding
out what many are calling the "gourmet ghetto" of the Missionsits Bi-Rite
Market, a neighborhood staple. A grocery
since the 1940s, Bi-Rite has been owned by the Mogannam family
since 1964. In 1997 the small cornerstone took a turn upward, enriching
the quality of its expansive deli, and offering a line of the markets
own bottled sauces and dressings. Today, under the deco sign sits carts
of colorful fruit and flowers, and inside gastronomes will find an
astounding selection of quality meats, fish, an exquisite array of
cheese and wine, and grocery items to stock any gourmand pantry. Praise
for this small wonder has appeared everywhere, including Bon Appetite,
Conde Nast Traveler, Food and Wine, Wine Spectator, and Sunset Magazine.
While there are no tables or chairs inside the deli,
Dolores Park is just a block away, so when the weather is picnic-friendly,
this is the premier spot to pack your basket. Take a number if its
busy. In addition to fine sandwiches, cold roasted Fulton Valley Ranch
chicken or Niman Ranch pork roast or chateubriand are always wonderful,
and their plentiful side dishes like tortellini salad, roasted beets,
and Greek salad beat a bag of potato chips any day. Other house specialties,
like robust macaroni and cheese, lasagna, house smoked salmon, and
frittatas, are also perfectly done. The amazing cookies, made by the
wife of one of the owners, and the creamy fruit-infused bread pudding,
are the perfect finish. |
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But perhaps youd rather have
a casual lunch indoors with a proper table and silverware. And one,
perhaps, that caters to the needs of your vegan or vegetarian friends. Then
give one of the Missions newest and most delectable cafes, The
Lunch Club, just around the corner at Valencia and 16th,
a try. Self-proclaimed "California comfort food," here the
philosophy of the owners is to be as kind to the earth as they are
to the palate. Grilled sandwiches come in numerous mouthwatering vegetarian
options, such as grilled Italian vegetables in flavorful olive oil,
or exotic mushroom and cheese, and the soup is always a tasty vegan
brew. For the carnivorous sort, the chicken-filled empanadas are not
to be missed, and the grilled ham and gueyere are outstanding.
But what all diners of every dietary habit will agree
on is the pleasure of the casual elegance of the café setting,
well-lit with plenty of natural light, and fresh food served inexpensively,
no frills, but without the plastic fork. The environment is clean and
welcoming, and the servers are as nice as they could possibly be.
The Lunch Club is also a general store, and the tall,
dark wooden shelves are stocked with such luxuries as organic chocolate
bars, tea and coffee, small farm cheeses, and non-toxic household products.
Not only will your meal be sublime, but your soul will be satisfied. |
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All this angelic inspiration wont
last forever, and the portions are petite lunch-sized morsels. By dinner,
youll likely be feeling gluttonous and indulgent. Or
at minimum, in need of a cocktail and some other vices, too, such as
do-it-yourself smores for dessert and some severely fried French
fries. If this is your current state, then it will be worth it to fight
the crowd at Luna Park, an elegant bistro that promises a bustling
young professional crowd, a volume of noise high enough to fill the
25-foot ceilings, and a cocktail and wine list to compliment the basic,
but ample food menu of everything from burgers and fries to salmon
and rappini.
On a weekend, forget about it. Without a reservation,
youll be staring into the pet shop window next door for an hour
or more. Midweek a more sensible wait will allow you time enough at
the bar for a mojitoone of the best in the cityserved with
a darling plastic toy garnish of a mermaid or a monkey. Take time to
enjoy the slick industrial look of tall velvet curtains, low lighting,
sharp lines and contours with an artistic twist. Come to see and be
seen. |
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The in-crowd also frequents another
nearby haunt thats pounding with the crowd on weekends, Tokyo
Go-Go. This is one of a handful of sushi/Japanese food places in
the area; but it wins, hands down, with the most interesting ambiance,
stunning décor, and a shocking price tag to match. The sushi
rivals the best in the city, but save your favorite nigiri orders for
another time and place. The emphasis here is on creative rolls and
handrolls, folding everything from sundried tomatoes to capers to chili
aioli into the mix, and your dining experience will be better served
by the adventure.
This establishment is the second attempt for owner
Ken Lowe, owner of the Marinas Ace Wasabi, and this effort at
super-stylish fish has been equally as successful. The beautiful people
come not just for the exquisite sushi and high-priced small plates
of miso-crusted fish and veg, but to revel beneath the space-age lighting
and soak in the museum-inspired artistry of cool retro tangerine and
green accents. The volume is loud and buzzing with youth, likely propelled
by the extensive offerings of sake and sake cocktails, cognac and scotch,
and more typical spirits. |
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Of course, this scene isnt for
everybody. If you like your dining out to be more casual and relaxed,
then take a load off at Ti
Couz, on 16th between Guerrero and Valencia, a Mission
lure for over a decade. Youll still have to waitthey never
take reservationsbut at least the attitude is calm, relaxed,
and café style. This airy space is long and skinny with lots
of bar seating at the hefty dark wood bar and a few heavy wooden tables.
Combined with the tall ceilings and painted wooden beams they create
an Alpine, comfy ski-lodge feelprecisely the environment owner
Sylvie Lemer seeks to create, naming the place "the old house" in
the language of the Brittany region of France.
A mixed crowd of all stripes flocks here for the
unique Brittany-style crepessavory buckwheat pancakes filled
with nearly anything you can imagine, but egg, cheese, tomato, and
mushroom sauce are some of their more popular choices. Dishes are small
and light, leaving plenty of room for the excellent onion soup gratin
or seafood salad, or the sweet crepes, infused with every possible
combination of fruit, cream, chocolate, and ice cream. Not to be missed
is their extensive beverage menu, featuring outstanding selections
of fresh lemonade, hard French cider from small vineyards, and house-made
hot chocolate, served French style in a finely-crafted ceramic bowl. |
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Did we mention that the Mission is
an eclectic United Nations of cuisine? Seated at this table beside
Latin America, Asia, and Europe is also the Senegalese bar, restaurant,
and music hall Bissap
Baobab on Mission at 19th. Owner Marco Senghor is deeply
concerned with every guest feeling comfortable and among friends, and
this deeply relaxed notion resonates throughout the subtle décor
of bamboo mats, simple seating and low lights, and the playful language
lessons often incurred on how to say "please" and "thank
you" in Senegalese.
Sampling the delicious and unusual elixirs, alcoholic
and non, made from the house-made ginger, tamarind, and hibiscus juice
are a must to fully experience that exotic African feel. The menu is
equally as memorable, featuring unusual offerings of meat, fish, or
tofu served in a savory peanut sauce, a pungent onion sauce, or a puckery
lemon mustard, with couscous or rice, fried plantains, and salad.
People come for the food and drink, or on occasion
just the drink, but linger long into the night to mix and mingle and
take in the spinning wheel schedule of world music, spoken word, or
ambient DJs from the small stage. The crowd has the hippy edge
often associated with people of all races interested in and appreciative
of African culture, but the vibe is all friendly and anything goes.
Theres a lot to look at, and if you want to keep looking after
dinner, the restaurant owns a similarly themed bar around the corner
on 19th street where the drinks and beats keep flowing to
help you work off dinner. |
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